UNDER SINK REVERSE OSMOSIS SYSTEM INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

Manual for Installation of Undersink Reverse Osmosis System
Manual for Installation of Undersink Reverse Osmosis System
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Product Description

Please note your filtration system or softener will include Installation and User Manual – we recommend you read these instructions and follow the diagrams in the manual. These instructions are useful to give an idea on the installation. 

If you feel comfortable using a drill, you can have your system installed in about 70 minutes. However, if you do not have the proper tools or do not feel comfortable drilling holes in the sink and plastic pipe, you may want to call your plumber to have it professionally installed. Make sure the plumber knows what they are dealing with as some of them have never seen RO filter before.

The tubes are supplied with your system and they are color coded (see long description of system). Filters with quick connectors allow easy and quick connection of tubes – and makes changing filters a snap!

Your system should include the following:

RO system Unit

Four Tubes

Installation Kit: Tank Ball Valve, Drain Saddle Valve, Feed Water Valve, Faucet Assembly

Manual and Warranty

NOTE: It is recommended to install the system in a reachable place (e.g., under the sink) for easy access to replace filters. Storage tank can be placed vertically or horizontally. The water supply connector MUST be installed on the COLD water line only.

The following installation steps are not an exact copy of the manual you will receive with your system.

Recommended tool list:

Variable speed drill

1/8” Drill Bit

1/4” Drill Bit

7/16” drill bit

1/2” drill bit

1/2” Open End Wrench

9/16” Open End Wrench

Phillips screwdriver

utility knife

small roll of Teflon tape

STEPS: Step 1) INSTALLATION OF THE FAUCET 

Determine the desired location for your RO faucet on your sink surface

Place a piece of masking tape or duct tape on the determined location where hole is to be drilled

Use a variable speed drill at slow speed with 1/8” (3 mm) drill and drill a centering hole in the center of the desired faucet location. Use lubricating oil to keep the drill bit cool while drilling.

Enlarge the hole using a 1/4" (6.4 mm) drill bit. Use Factory approved method or approved plumbing practice to drill hole in sink

Enlarge the hole to 7/16” (11 mm) diameter. Keep bit well oiled and drill slowly.

Pass the small rubber washers, the chrome base plate and the large rubber washer in that order over the threaded mounting tube at the base of the faucet.

From under the sink, install the large metal (or plastic) washer and the star washer over the threaded stem. Screw on the nut and tighten.

Sleeve over the brass compression nut and the white plastic ferrule (do not use the brass one) over the blue tube (tube A. in graph above) and push to the end of the threaded stem. Screw on the compression nut and tighten.

The faucet handle can be pushed down for instant and pull out continue flow.

STEP 2) TAPPING INTO COLD WATER LINE

Turn off the cold water supply. Open cold water faucet to release the pressure. On single handed faucets, the water may have to be turned off to prevent any hot water cross over. If water continues to come out of the faucet with angle valve turned off, the main house water supply will have to be turned off. Locate the feed water adapter in the installation kit. The needle valve should be installed into slip joint adapter before assembly is connected to feed water line. Teflon tape must be used on needle valve to prevent leaks. Disconnect the cold water riser rube and install the slip joint adapter.

Please follow the flex line and solid copper riser installation: Flex line: Loosen nut and separate cold water riser tube from faucet shank. Gently bend riser tube so that slip joint fits onto faucet shank. Replace the existing cone washer with new washer provided in installation kit onto cold water riser tube. Reinstall riser tube onto slip joint adapter and tighten.

Solid copper riser tube: Procedure as flex tubing except you must cut a piece of the riser tube about 3/4" or 1” so the slip joint adapter can fit between faucet and riser tube. Teflon tape must be used on angle valve to prevent leaks.

Connect orange tubing (tube B. in graph above) to angle needle valve.

STEP 3) MOUNTING THE TANK BALL VALVE 

NOTE: Do not tamper with air valve on low side of storage tank. It has been preset at 8-10 psi by the manufacturer

Wrap Teflon tape in clockwise direction around the threads on the stainless steel fiting on top of the tank. Thread the ball valve onto the stainless steel connector on the tank. Do not over-tighten plastic connections. Connect the yellow tubing (tube D. in graph above) from the tank to the tank ball valve Turn the tank ball valve off

STEP 4) MOUNTING THE DRAIN CLAMP

The drain clamp will fit most standard drain pipes. It should be installed above the trap and on the vertical tailpiece. do not install the drain saddle near the garbage disposal. This will cause problems, may plug the drain and may cause the RO system to stop working. Better if clamp is installed on the second drain above the cross bar (1.5 inch minimum). If that is not possible do it above the garbage disposal with enough seperation.

Position the drain saddle in desired location, mark spot through thread outlet, remove saddle. Drill 1/4" (6.3 mm) hole into the drain pipe above the water line of trap.

Align the hole drilled in the drain pipe with the drain saddle using a drill bit or other narrow straight object clamp. Make sure to align drain saddle to drilled hole. Use the small square black foam gasket. It has a circle cult out in the middle; this must be applied to the inside of the drain saddle. Attach drain saddle to drain pipe and tighten the screws evenly. Connect black tubing (tube C. in graph above) to drain clamp.



STEP 5) SYSTEM START UP

Turn on the cold water supply and the under sink feed water valve but close the tank ball valve. Open RO faucet (black level to the up position) for continuous flow. Check system for leaks, tighten as necessary. After 5 minutes, the water will start to drip out of the RO faucet. Let it drip for about 5 minutes and then flip the handle to the closed position. Now open the ball valve on the tank and leave the system alone. It will now take several hours (3-5) for the storage tank to fill, depending on the local water pressure.

NOTE: Do not drink the first four gallons produced by your newly purchased system. Drain the tank two time before drinking water. You will know that the tank is empty when the flow rate from the RO faucet is down to a trickle. Flushing the tank is only necessary during the initial startup and after replacing the membrane in 3 years. If you want to connect RO system to the refrigerator/ice maker you need a Tee, valve and some 1/4" plastic tubing (Ice-Maker Hook Up Kit; Item# IMHK04). You can do it now. Close all valves, do your cut on the blue tube going to faucet, install Tee and take a tube to the ice maker.

After the tank is full (you will hear the water stop), flush the system by placing the RO faucet in the open position until the water is completely discharged.

Upon complete discharge of storage tank, flip handle to closed position on RO faucet and let the refilling process begin. This process could take 2-3 hours to complete.

After the second tank is filled, you may enjoy the pure water. Try coffee or tea!

Check leaks daily for the first few days and periodically thereafter.

You may notice that the water may be milky colored during the first week. It is the air bubble in the water. It is normal and safe.

To disconnect a tube, push in collet squarly against face of fitting. With collet held in this position the tube can be removed.

Warning: Incorrect installation may VOID the warranty.